Also make note that you only need to do it to one side of the ship (if it's symmetrical). ![]() Make sure you're using the pencil tool for this (Click and hold over the brush tool to see other brush options). Sample one of the colors in that area, and begin to paint it over. With the eyedropper tool (hotkey I), find a problem area. In other words, we want harder and sharper color transitions, instead of smooth gradients and turbulence. The general idea with this step is to find grainy and blended areas of color, and make them more uniform, like a sprite usually is. We're now going to try to smooth out any rough parts on our sprite. Create a new blank layer, and name it Paint-Over. We won't be needing it anymore, and its presence will only make the edges of our sprite sharper and uglier. Now, disable the visibility on your base layer. This layer helps make the sprite a bit darker, and also helps add a little detail into the render. Set the layer mode of this new layer to Soft Light, and drop the opacity into the 15%-40% range. Set all properties to the lowest they go.Ĭlick OK. On our new layer, we'll go to filter>filter gallery, and then under brush strokes, choose the Accented Edges filter. Next, I'll duplicate the base layer one last time, and move the new layer above the Sharpen layer. Make sure the contrast layer's opacity is left at 100%, as it will soon become our base layer. ![]() It all depends on what render settings you used, as well as the model's texture. In this case, I'm actually going to decrease the contrast, however, in most cases, you'll find that increasing it will look better. Go to Image>Adjustments>Brightness/Contrast. The filter might be a little powerful, so adjust the new layer's opacity as needed.ĭuplicate the base layer again, and move it underneath the Sharpen Layer. Duplicate the base layer, and then go to filter>sharpen>sharpen. Now that we're set up, we can start doing the editing that matters. Once done, set the AO layer mode to Multiply. Make sure that it fits over the base layer nicely before merging. Then, repeat those steps for the ambient occlusion pass. Align the two halves so they fit together. Select one of the layers, and transform them horizontally. Now, you'll be left with two halves of the same ship, each on a different layer. Go back to your base layer, and select the other half of the ship. Select half of the ship, from right down the middle.Ĭopy and paste that halved segment of the ship. (Here's how it turned out, if you're curious:įirst, start by making a new document, and copying both the render and its Ambient Occlusion pass into it, each as a separate layer.īecause the ship we're making is symmetrical in shape, we're going to make sure it's symmetrical in every other aspect as well. I'll be using a different render than the one I used in the video, because I made that one when doing the ill-fated video version. A text and picture version will work better and allow you to work at your own pace, instead of pausing every five seconds to see what I'm doing. I tried a video version of this, but in the end, it would have just wound up being way too long and drawn out. ![]() (Alex, any chance of a forum update so we can embed youtube videos into posts? It would make things a bit more convenient.) This tutorial is focused on these two pieces of software, however, the concepts would apply to any other program. You can render your ships out in other software, like Blender, and you can also use other image editing programs besides Photoshop. The software I use is 3ds Max for rendering, and Photoshop for post-processing the completed renders. This tutorial is for those of you who want to get your 3D models into Starfarer (Or any other 2D game).
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